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Making Custom Brackets For A 50 inch LED

Making Custom Brackets For A 50 inch LED
Making Custom Brackets For A 50 inch LED

Today we are going to be mounting a 50-inch light bar on my truck. Let me explain what I’ve done so far hi that piece of duct tape right there in the center is marking the center of the windshield. And as you can see. As you can see on life by myself, I’ve also put a piece of duct tape signaling where the middle of the light bar is so I can line those two pieces up. Then I built this contraption between 2 ladders to help support the light bar and so.

The light bars can be resting on top of this I’ve got the level in the center there too I can make sure that the standard is in the right place for the light bar the last person the scale when I mounted. Just hold up with wood duck tape and some scaffolding.

And now, my satellite bar and placed on the top no light bars in place position where it needs to be able to put the level back in front of it so that I can make sure that those boards always stay level. Right here in this is how we’re going to design the brackets for it within the top corner we’re going to screw the brackets and right along here and the frame of the truck and it just has to extend enough so that we can screw into the side of the light here. So.

The metal has to be at least 6 inches long—the mechanic curves it to go with the lip of the middle here. And then bend it out just a little bit so that all that. And our angle it out just a little bit like that tiny amount with the edge of the light bars so.

Now, if you are sure to light bar, you have to angle your bracket, and then the curve is. I’ve seen some of those with like the 40 inch light bar consensus once 50 just a little bit longer than my truck is we have to pull the angle it straightens it massive black cars will have similar scenes are creases in the frame on either side of the vehicle, so this crease right here is the same on the other side.

It’s you can use those to reference where you want to pre-placed metal bracket to hold up the light, so my is just going to go just a little bit over this line, and I’m going to make sure that it goes over the same distance on the other side keep it universal. Yes. Right now, it’s been entirely so that the Kerr. This one never touches the bottom part of the bracket. And I’m going to mark where I can bend it up so that it’ll connect with that.

We’re both into the light. There. Now given enough clearance for this and allowed to vote on that night. Suppose you need to bend it up along with this bottom part down here that now sort of the car. Correct real bit for the Baltic goes inside to hold up the light you want to bet that will cover up all of the threats you can see on this particular bit you can see some of the threads up at the top and the bottom.

Of the bed, Sir Michael had switched to a bigger bed. And that’ll make it so that the screw slides right inside. The slot without gripping on the threads is destroying any of the threats. Now I can drill a hole in the side of the mountain since I have it all pinned up against the truck is just like a rough placement right now when I finally put it on I’m going to put a bit of caulking between this and the bolts so that no water or anything seeps inside. I got pain and treatment, so it doesn’t look like it’s just a piece of iron. Print and down a little bit.

They sort of set the latter against. The light bar bolted in on this site, and right now, I have to get this whole lined up so that the light is on this level from the top, and it’s pointed straight forward. So I’m going to do that is to level it you know I’ve been down with the ground with the truck is pretty easy I just need to raise and lower the light bar until that little bubbles right in the middle of the level so needs to go up a little bit on this left side and then as far as pointing straight forward.

I’m just going to make sure that the gap between the windshield and the light bar itself is uniform on the whole side as well to do that both at the same time while I’m getting this in place to figure out where to drill a hole in this bracket. Ninety-four install the Finnish bracket at home. Which is this guy now that it’s all painted up I’m going to take some clear silicone sealant. And just go ahead and like put it on all the little holes that way.

It won’t leak in market water inside the truck no help kind of weatherproof that a little bit now the silicones in place and go ahead and install that bracket the man is mounted. Super sturdy. The reason I use a couple of different kinds of screws is that even though these are both 2 inches, there slightly different links, and I wanted to make sure that the nuts on the inside were able to stay on you can kind of see the notes right there the reason.

I use these to darker screws right there because there is harder most significant groups that are more durable, but they didn’t come in the 2-inch length that I needed. And those as well our guest tied in with notes there on the back so in the wiring harness this end right here with the black and red cables this is what attached to the ground which is somewhere on your frame, and then this connected to your battery terminal and then descends go inside the cab.

The end right there connects to the light bar itself and then this and connects a little switch that turns the light bar on and off Sherman do is I’m going to take these ends. And stick them inside and the fire was a little hole inside of there you can see that I already have one wire coming out from my car alarm. This is going to take both of these sticking through the hole, and I’ll end up inside of the cab underneath the dashboard as far as wiring goes I mentioned before that I came back out to the firewall and then I screw this on just you and mounting bracket.

Yes, you know that something else is mounted onto and I have a grounding screw here that some of my other things like my stereo and H. I. D. lights are grounded too, and then I just took power is wired into the power terminal of the battery and as soon as you do that. This guy will turn red, and you can just press the button. And the light will turn on and off. So far as the wiring for the legos as children another hole in the cab a little bit bigger than the cable and also silicone mat as you can tell and so the silicon okay keep the water out of the most beautiful job and clean it up the second.

On the inside of the cab, I have that big black wire coming down here. This is for my car alarm. Then I connect the wires there. Read it down underneath them is going to clean that all up and stuff, but when I meet the firewall and. The switch. Which is what turns on and off the lights. I’m probably going to mail down here come out of the way because that light is going to be on all the time. I don’t want to disappoint me so so down here; I can just reset and click it.

Whatever I want. Presently enough, the weather stripping went back on even though those nuts and bolts are in place. So the whole thing is still going to be. It is relatively quiet and waterproof because the weather-stripping fits on it wouldn’t fit our just cut here and there unless the weather is stripping on either side instead of right there where the bracket is right now for the Cotter pins on the side.

I assumed that this would rotate reasonably easily. When you clamp these down, I have a locking washer inside here as well. One on the other side, when you clamp down holds it tight, it’s not super worried about it, but the Cotter pin idea was that I could take a Cotter pin a long one and stick it inside of the hole right there. And then as it goes into the hole, it’ll go through the sides in the heat sink.

Just like that, receive news camera angle, but it’s going to rain between this little fender here and since there’s one on this side and one, on the other hand, is keep it level. Straight up and down or whatever position angle it out so I can take the pain out rotate the light down to put the pen back in obviously with this camera you can’t tell Paul Walker doesn’t pick up all the views from the headlight. But you can tell a huge difference when the fiftieth light bars on.

One more time in a cemetery, you can see that the standard headlights. It can show about you know the three headstones out. And then with the 50 inches LED light bar I see quite a bit are there. If you’re interested in buying a 50 inch light bar at least that down below the one I bought was about 250 Bucks appreciate getting questions don’t forget to leave them in the comments below.

Knick Knack Shelf With Color Changing Paint

Knick Knack Shelf With Color Changing Paint
Knick Knack Shelf With Color Changing Paint

Kind of fresh the only scraps he has that right there pretty much use the whole sheet of plywood. Anyway, and I was going to mark those slots the instructions were the plans say that you got to measure out the distance halfway just cut it every time there’s a slot. So I’ve always attended the big ones are 10 inches across the slot goes 5 inches deep that’s the most prominent part he’s got a re-measured each time.

They were just taking the. The stencils and the boards themselves and just make little marks where the sponsoring a line about. So I just leave my stencil on top of the board, and I set it up a little bit to make the bottom marks, and I set it down to the top scores making sure it’s all even.

No word on the stack a small boards one of the common ones is going to keep ongoing. Right now, as a mark in the cutouts, you can see on that for the lines that are to May 2. No, well, where I need to make each of the slots.

So what I’m doing is I’m taken in each little marks that I made with my sense of before, and I’m learning this board up that I just want to scrap pieces. With the lines with the dots on there and there’s one there on the other side. You can see and at the top end up as well Ionis take honorable fence autumn of that just like that.

And that’s Mrs. Marshall street, and so you can keep the slots. No, where they’re supposed to be because this whole thing will be pretty spot on with the measurements; otherwise, it’s not. Transformation progress someone tells you what I’ve been doing up to this point. I’ve taken the boards themselves, and I’ve marked the midpoint on each of the stretch referring slots. The. If you take the whole measurement, you can see this one is eight a little over 8 and 8.

So what I did is it don’t you want this what be a little bit longer than usual so I just barely over for honest just because they want the bigger end of the half not only by like an eighth of an inch the figure into that to be here so when you cut it. It slides down each. Like, let’s say.

With each of the marks is going to have for with the over cuts now sorry, so there’s 4 of each piece is the big medium and small, so there’s going to be 2 with the slots on top and then top with the slots on the bottom.
They kind of mesh together when you’re putting the whole thing together like this the ones with the slots on the top so you can see this one has a groove in the top right here salicylates underneath. This one they’re tough to get underneath if the angles aren’t perfect; she wants to cut just a little bit big. You know how I drew the lines on it you want to cut right on those lines.

So you have a little bit of space to wiggle you know it depends on you know how good you are with us on everything. You can do it however you want. So when I take the skills are for I guess jigsaw. Hi Y. Catamount the sales into this one. I would come along this line here with the chicks on. Noted this part right here in that backup, and I’d curve in like this cut that night curving again cut that curve, and still, I get that that we have a gap.

Right here where I can put the jigsaw in and cut straight across right here, but I have this kind of hold shape cut out, and then I come in on this side. And just drop the whole chunk out. Because what I’ve done right here, I came in straight, and I backed up, and then I cut right there all over the centerline, and I cut out those jump just like that, and that leaves it just big enough for my sublet decision just down there.

I can cut straight across, as I mentioned before. I am making some serious progress. Come a long way since we came from the string tied to the growing. So anyway everything’s. Put together right now, so I’m probably gonna do just get some sandpaper and kindest most images. If you look closely sometimes, it is like little gaps and stuff. There, there’s one. Of great calls and things like that oh probably go through an. Kind of clean that up, please fill the gaps and stuff like that.

It was returned in. Make sure your culture. Pretty right on. I thought of you know harder to put the pieces in the far you got out from the center, but it’s easier to put the increases in. Serviceman through. Just have some of the bigger holes and stuff, but the call could. Nothing too big. I guess you could go through, and you know we hit every corner if you want to make it all uniforms, and to me, it’s not that big of a deal my all my Custer pretty. Retired anyway. So.

I was going to go through a base coat on it right now black, and then I bought another paint can. It’s kind of cool is this color changing. Paint so it kind of goes from black to green just kind of depends on what to. Type a light-year in. Anyway yeah, that’s what you get when you don’t know friends don’t live with your mom. You can pick your own Franco’s. Severely campaigns this thing laying down very well this briefing doesn’t go down in those cracks, so I came out here. You propped up with the hold.

And from a fast little around. Square now I can’t access double size, and I’ll be able to pay a little bit easier. In your opinion, make sure that the backends all lined up with all these small cross-sections. So that you’re not.
I don’t know if you’re hitting all the servicer they’re going to have to show them what it’s up against the wall so like let’s say if this board was like an inch this direction then if you painted it when you put it back into place 30 thanks for showing on the side. In research about all the black paint on this, the base coat someone to go ahead and let it dry for a second and then put on the next coach of the color pink the cool stuff. The talk of cans of spray paint is a lot more, and I thought it was the.

But we finally finished. So this is what the shelves finally look like. So if we can get kind of. The idea for Alico is changing these numbers. Since. So that’s how you make the sales order ID now just mountain. It’s kind of a side profile. The very questions or anything else I should leave it in the comments. Thank you for the videos every week or so, so if you’re likely to see that subscribe. And that’s it, thanks.

The things that I do differently persecuted over again one is I would probably use a different password or use the same stencils, but you’re out of the board that’s more email this post you made it to shelves these are hard to fit at a one piece of plywood. If you are into that, and I want to see if I would make sure that you cut as close to the line.

It’s possible I put on my phone right off each other stencils so that you know one cat will hit two stencils at some point if that makes sense just because like if you read even a millimeter of the gap between the two also if you have a super fine as long at all it’s this almost on that, so I made my work very good just a little bit yeah.

All of these files I heard the other guys just as he took off, I believe the centimeter at the bottom, which made the entire shelves smaller, which is good because the cells are pretty few 0 cells. Yeah, there are a few things that are done.

The iPhone 5s Screen Repair

The iPhone 5s Screen Repair
The iPhone 5s Screen Repair

Eunice small Phillips head screwdriver and then a pendulum screwdriver, it’s the same size that opens up all I. phones, a pry tool, and a suction cup.

But the suction Cup close to the home button. Take your pet to a screwdriver and undo the bottom two screws right next to the charging port. Please, your suction cup right next to the home. Button and lift with your finger while trying to put the price tool between the frame of the screen.

I found it a little bit easier to use a razor blade as it was more is more firm so could slide down between the frame of the glasses more comfortable lift of jailing kind of pariah them apart don’t stick you’re too into far though because there’s a ribbon cable you don’t want to read. Lift gently between the screen in the frame.

You can see right here that little ribbon cable that’s where the fingerprint sensor connects to the mainboard some inducement takes my small pry tool to reach it in there and it’s kind of like a little latch suit twister pry tool up a little bit. And on the latch on one side. And it will come apart here in a second you’ll see. As I lift the small ribbon cable connector non snapped at the top part of the latch comes off, which is fine, it goes back on previously as well. When I say quickly, I mean, you’re going to hate every second of it towards the end of the article.

Right here on this bracket, there’s going to be four screws. Take off each of the screws, set them in the location where they came out, and then put the bracket next to him to remember where they go in because they are different sizes. There’s the bracket, and then right here, we have different ribbon cables, Miskin, on snap on just like little legos. This is for the earpiece in the camera.

This one right here is for the LCD. And then this one ‘s the digitizer. But do you need to know what those are? But they on a clip and snap just like that. Here’s the screen we have the earpiece on the side with all the cameras and sensors, and we have the home button with the fingerprint sensor on the bottom Michelle take apart the first. And do little screws a little small super tiny metal piece it should stick to the screw as U. S. crude as minded just remember where that goes in the location of it so you can put it back in just in case it does pop off.

Then there are two screws holding on the home button. There’s a little metal bracket, so take that off, and the home button itself is stuck on like with sticky tape type stuff onto the frame of the phone you can take any pry tool I know like my razor blade. I find that it is pretty stiff and sharp enough to get under an insult tiny seems to be super careful around his ribbon cables looks if you rip one you know you have to buy a new part.

The ministry added gently before the home button. It’s a little bit on each side until the whole button comes away from the phone. Very gently. Any parts for this phone a list in the video description below so if you have any questions anything like that let me know if you have a specific part you need let me know and I can usually find a preachy Fauria.

And there’s the home button, and now we’re going to take off the earpiece, and the front-facing camera and light sensor serves two screws on either side of the bracket there. And the brackets interesting there’s a little metal clip on. The inside of the bracket, you have to be just ever so slightly outside of the bracket will come off. Smith has been that out. The whole bracket comes away from the phone.

And you can kind of see what I was talking about with a little tiny clip right there. So it very quickly clicks back into place when you’re done anyway once again be super careful with all these small ribbon cables. I wouldn’t mess around, and they were putting them all into one component 3 here. You can see M. lifting the connector for the earpiece as well as the light sensor. And then you can see the camera coming away. As well in that same ribbon cable group. And then the whole thing is kind of stuck down with little grounding sticker.

On to the back of the screen and so fuel up on that very gently once again, you don’t want to rip any of this stuff unless you break when opening your phone the better. So I always say. There you go. Now it depends on where you buy your screen from the mile also have to switch out the metal plate. There are just those four screws around the outside, and once again. This entirely depends on where your screen front.

I’m not going to do it on the screen just because it is super simple. Four screws pop it out good to go. And I want to place the. Group of ribbon cables camera sensor and everything back into place there’s only one spot for everything she’s kind of got a position it does take a little bit to get to everything in the right spot. The only fit in one way, so it’s pretty simple to figure out. Got a stuck back down on the screen again.

And then get the earpiece in there. Remember that your part acts like a little magnet, so let’s say you’re trying to pick up a screw with your screwdriver in your screwdrivers not magnetized you can easily attract on the back of the. At the end of the speaker, share does that once we get this bracket in the place. So my screwdriver won’t pick up the screw, so I touched it to the back of the speaker, and then boom screwdriver is magnetized pick up any screw. Almost too well, so my god with my tweezers instead in place at the end of the whole. And screw back into place—the same thing with the other screw. And you are done with the earpiece.

So the home button, however, this is where you need to remember what direction that little tiny metal bit was going in. With the home button pressed down into place. If the bracket over the top of the. Then, hopefully, your screw is still stuck into the top of the ribbon cables. You can screw it down in a place. I found there was a little bit easier to hold—it with my pry tool and the small screwdriver, like this.

We got that thing scrutiny again. Now get the screen back on. Mr with the digitizer ribbon cable. Click that into place once again just like legos; it takes a second to position it right over the top, but once it’s in place, you can just click it down.

You’ll hear a satisfying click with each connection. You’ll see me struggle a bit with this last one. It’s hard to find out exactly where it wanted to clip in. There we go—Grabill bracket. And once again, you should have your screws laid out so that you can remember where they went. Screw each one of those back into place. Once again, any parts for this, you know the screen.

Anything else you might need to be listed in the video description below and if anything else besides that make sure to asking in the comments or hit me up on Twitter either way. Hit me up on Facebook. Now I can answer any questions you have anyway here’s the fingerprint scanner cable we’re going to try to get back into place. You’re going to hate this thing.

I never want to do what you want to do, so I kind of position to place my finger, and I have the pry tool that I was going to sort of press it in just like little lego snaps we’re playing with before. Get it in place, and I have a low hinged bracket them in a slip down on top of there as well. Once you get into the site, you can press it down with your finger or with your price tool once again; it takes forever to get this thing positioned just right.

You’re going to love apple anyway. That’s what it looks like when it’s in place. And then position the top of the screen in first and you can kind of snapped up the edge of the phone make sure to press on the sides you don’t crack the screen again. And then click the bottom place as well, and then at this point, I like to turn the phone on to make sure it’s working. And then as I don’t have to undo the bottom screws more than I need to. It looks like it all turned on, so many get those bottom screw back into place.

Once again, if you have become any questions or comments or anything else, which made. The comments below like this article.

The iPhone 5, 5s And 5c Glass Only Screen

The iPhone 5, 5s And 5c Glass Only Screen
The iPhone 5, 5s And 5c Glass Only Screen

Current dreamers should replace just the glass on an iPhone screen this article work for the iPhone 5 see the iPhone 5 and the iPhone 5 S. what I’ve done to this point is taken off the back metal plate the home button in the earpiece from the phone if you want to watch.

How to do this on your phone go ahead and click the link that goes to yours and assure you the teardown video for that this article is just how to replace the glass on your iPhone taken off these little plastic pieces from. The top of the phones was going to reuse those on the glass once we get it back into place that the last bit was small metal grill be careful with these ribbon cables during the process because.

F you’ve been tweaking him in any way or else he’s going to stop working permanently grab he young and start heating your phone very gently you want to get it to 70°C but don’t go over 95°C who will begin burning the LCD underneath. If you’re not using one of those handy dandy laser heat temperature sensors which are willing conveyors Christian below, you want to get it too hot to touch.

Pull off the plastic frame from around the edge of the glass because we will reuse the plastic casing with your new drink that you purchase from the link in the description. Now, I’m going to grab a playing card in kind of slide it between the plastic frame in the glass to help out if your screen is shattered. This will come off a little bit easier. Still, since my filters mostly in one piece, it says slightly harder clean off any shards of glass that are down in this plastic since.

We’re going to reuse it, and now we need to separate the LCD from the class itself we’re going to grab that he gun and heated up again to that same temperature ranges before just getting it barely too hot to touch. We don’t want to do any damage to the LCD underneath you’ll see you’ll become yellow or brown if you feed it up too much.

Now I’m going to grab my playing card, once to the temperature inside, between the LCD and the glass. On the flip it over and show you, what it looks like, you can see that the glue is liquid between the two layers in ashes sliding away from that the card itself. If you enjoy the video so far, if you feel like you’ve learned something goes ahead and click that subscribe button, it does mean a lot to me. It does help me keep on making videos like this one. Also, check out my Instagram. I promise I do more exciting things than fix phones all day links to social media, and repair parts in the description below.

Now you can see as I slide the card in that the glue is not responding as quickly as it was before is because the glass is cooling down it does cool down fairly quickly because it’s so thin so I’m going to go ahead and stop sliding my card around here in a second. I’m going to reheat the glass again so that the group will become more liquid. This is pretty freaking exciting and heated. The same temperature ranges before 7°C 95°C. And you can watch the card separate the glass from the LCD.

I’m not going to speed this up at all. You can see exactly how the group reacts with the card some people use wire some people use razor blades if this is the funniest thing you’ve watched all day I don’t know what is. You can see that these glass shards about to pop off if your screen is more crack than this. You’ll be pulling glass shards off more often. Since my filters not too bad, this is all the excitement that you get. Pull that guy off, and we are almost done. Sell buckle up ladies and gentlemen we’re almost there. The anticipation is killing me. And we are finished.

You can go ahead and pull that glass often just thrown away. We’re not going to need any more replacement glass pieces that will be found in the article description. Below so here’s the LCD when you look at what you do think eggshell because any more pressure than what would crack an eggshell will break of this. You’ll be left with just a broken piece of plastic.

We’re going to pull off all the glue that we can from it just rolling it off with your finger member being super gentle the whole time once you’ve got all the big pieces a paste off you can use a mild solvent like alcohol. And just kind of somewhat around on top of the gluteal just kind of.
Make it dissolve. I will link in the description of the alcohol th

at I use. You can buy that if you need to, I am taking a plastic pry tool you can also use you know that broken debit card or a plastic card and scrape off some of the significant glue pieces from the edge of the screen and then heading back to the alcohol. Can help clear up the last little bits of it some people recommend using Google on I haven’t tried that before, but it’s an option here is the spotless LCD screen.

Not have gotten all the glue off. I’m going to do one quick last little rub down with the alcohol a new piece of cloth to make sure that there’s no dust or anything before I put this UV activated loca glue on top of the screen. So with this crew is an optically clear UV activated clue, I link that down the video description below. You just going to lay it out in a pattern similar to this, so you don’t trap air bubbles underneath the glass when you lay it down.

If you get any air bubbles in the glue, you can tap it with your metal tweezers, and those will pop the little bubbles that are inside anyway, taking the glass lining up, your peace with the ribbon cables to make sure. That is oriented in the right direction, and then I’m just going gently placed the glass down on top of.

The LCD and the glue remember that the slower you do this, the better because if you do it fast, it will travel air bubbles inside. They’re going to be almost impossible to remove because they are between the glass and the LCD. Hence, if you get bubbles, you can just like to massage them out towards the edge of the glass, but you know the slower you do it, the fewer bubbles you have, none preferably anyway if you grab popcorn for a free deposit article.

It is pretty darn, exciting. Still just pressing the glue out to the edge of the screen, you can see that the glass will slide around a little bit. This is fine.

It’s preferable because we are not using a mold at the moment. I figured most of the world wouldn’t have shells to work with, so we are doing the video without them. I’m sure you prefer that as well, okay now that. The glue has been pushed out to the edges of the LCD.

I’m going to lift it at the glucan acts like this section which is nice and makes our job a little bit easier the goal here is to line the LCD up with the glass, so you want an even distance on the left and right side. Of the LCD and then along the top here, you’re going to see a white line. You want that line to be entirely hidden by the top glass. Once you’ve kind of gently put in place, making sure that there’s no air bubbles or anything between the glass and the LCD and making a couple of last-minute adjustments here before I grab my UV light, the UV light is what cures the glue or makes it dry. The group will always stay liquid and tell the UV light hits it.

I’ve heard of some guys going outside and using the sun, but I feel like that would take too long, and I honestly don’t think it works out well, so just grab a UV light. And stick it over the top of the screen I did mine for about 20 seconds, and then I flipped it up to make sure I do need to make any last-minute adjustments to it while the glue was still quite tacky because we will try entirely in about a minute or two once the UV light is on.

Now that it’s all dried a minute, flip it over and clean off the back any excess glue. It was making sure that it’s not. It was going to stick around. It. Now there’s some, and he said that you want to use to get the frame on the glass this three and stuff that you see me putting on right now is garbage do not use it I would recommend using the sticky tape that is short previously that comes in the giant roll stuff is a lot more viscous and does a lot better job.

But hindsight is 2020 now that I’ve placed a glass inside the frame I could start putting the whole phone back together again if you’re bored of this parking kind of skipped towards the end, especially if you know what you’re doing getting that metal plate back into place. Put in the home button down in metal brackets screwed in. Making sure that the frames in the right spot and now I’m putting in all of those little bits and pieces that I took off at the beginning of the video like the earpiece the grill the rubber bit short other small plastic thing imaging.

And setting down the camera and proximity sensors into place in that plastic brackets your piece goes in your piece bracket goes in—screw on the top score on the bottom. And there you go. Everything seems to be working now; the screen’s back into place. If you have any questions be sure to leave in the comments down below don’t forget to like if this article.

HID Xentec Headlight System

HID Xentec Headlight System
HID Xentec Headlight System

A rumor she had installed Zantac lighting system comes with five main parts, so you have your bulbs right here. Make sure not to touch the glass part on the bold because the oil from your fingers can make it overheating break. So please, please make sure not feel that then you have what’s called the balustrade here and it’s got to connections that go into the bold and then a red bonds that actually.

Plugs into this other cable right here. And so on this end of the connection, we have one that plugs into the bowl one that connects into the ballast, and then this is a grounds you just going to boiled down to their friends somewhere usually use like an existing bold and Austria to do that in a second. And then on the other end.

We have a few more cables. This is what plugs into your existing wiring harness you know that comes out of the back of your bulbs. And then it’s the same kind of. Seeing over here with these, this goes into your ballast. This goes into the bold, and then that part goes into the ground, which is just bolted on your frame. And then with your built-in fuse right here on your last cable.

This needs to be connected to the reading of your battery. And that gives power to the whole system. And then this can be secured somewhere on your frames. Where is not going to bounce around or get? Wet or anything like that, and then the other side is just for the other headlight. Not sure how to install all right now right so here’s the original wolves you can see this is the connector that goes into the harness and there are two filaments in there there’s one in the back, and there’s one upfront, not your high and low beams so you can see that the H.

ID bulls also have the two filaments inside and are also reflecting straight up into the housing just like the old bolts do not have the same problem with reflection as they did with the old type of lights.

It was just this part that was sitting straight into the housing the reflector housing, and so the light would go out everywhere in blind everybody, and that’s why they added this part, so the H. I. delights are much safer than they used to be. This is what we mountain of the car first. Then you plug this in and lock it. Right, this is N. directly down into the back of the bold sums going to reaching here and unplug it. If.

No, its unplugged I’m going to get rid of this desk at the phone up on the bottom. The whole office up comes loose. And then. There’s. It depends on what kind of bold you have; some of them twist down this one with a little wire spring-type thing that’s in there, so I’m just going to on latches. When the bill comes out, this one just fell out. Try not to touch the glass, the boldest self. If you ever plan on reusing it.

You can see that the ball was right there. And I’m going to save these because you know the bulls still have a lot of life left him and if I ever decide to switch back to my old system in the next ten days around kind of expensive little guys take my old housing. It’s. Unlock it, and there are 3 small prongs on this thing. Right there and those are all going to fit .into their little slots to keep this straight up and down.

The little wires clip goes right back in and holds it in place just like that, so it’s 100 percent securely held intake the decibel dust boot. A little bit back on the floor. I got the dust boot on there, and I’ve kind of precedent in the center there to make sure that it’s. That sealed all the way around this and right here so that no water dust got inside of there right, so I took out my air filter box and had a little more room to work with the. May go ahead and stick the ball in there now.

No, that is locked in place. President looks too pretty right now because I’m testing it out, but everything plugged in right there. I have the ground that I showed you earlier just happened right next to the battery ground, and then I just took in the—the line with the fuse in it I detected directly into the battery lead. And later on, this, since I have.

This is the central part coming in from the other side. Where I have, that guy plugged into just where the old. Headlight harness used to plug into the bowl, but it’s plugged into that little guy. And then I came over here to this bold, and I have the ground hooked in right here to the frame. And then I’m going to find a way to check the balance and kind of mounted up underneath there want to have my air filter back in place I took it out to give you more room to work with.

Degree anyway right now they’re both on super bright super pleased with it with your head and try the bride. Authorizes a few quick little things it fry took me about a half-hour to get to this point right now I need to get in there and clean up all the small wires amounts of Dallas and everything like. That to take about a half-hour and plan for that, there are quite a few different bowls you can buy. There’s this based off of a color spectrum.

I would recommend that most people stick around a 5000 or 6000 maybe 7000 the more mid-range you stay, the more natural light it’ll look like, which also works better in like rainstorms and stuff like that because. When the roads are wet, I will reflect more the sun at you and not light up the way as much, so I recommend staying within their as well as like the blue lights most people associate with being blinded like I mentioned before it doesn’t have it’s. Reflects the light very well.

So it’s not you know being displayed all over the road and blinding drivers the other lanes that little reflective housing that assists in is pretty beneficial I got these lights off Amazon. I’m a link them in the description below along with any tools or anything else you need; if you have any questions, make sure even the comments I do respond regularly. Overall it was a fun project I’m pretty stoked with how it turned out.

You can see my before and after pictures keep in mind that these bulls are not legal in every state, so make sure you check your country. If the bolts are legitimate, know if it’s all right to have the H. ID boards installed in a car like yours; another super important thing is that once these boards are installed there, light reflects slightly differently.

So it’s crucial to adjust your headlights so that the lights aren’t reflecting either too high or you like into another lane or something like that you can check your local laws and stuff like that to see exactly how high and how far the lights can spread. Other than that, it’s a pretty simple operation mostly just plug and play all the little plugs can only fit in one spot.

So it’s not too rough if you don’t want to go through all the trouble of actually changing out your entire headlight system you can get this cool stuff on Amazon that cleans the lenses of your headlights basically if you just put it on your light.

Rub it on letting it sit for a little bit rub it off, and clean up your headlights thoroughly. So I’ll put a link for that the article description below and spike into being a little bit cheaper that way for yeah. Especially if your local laws don’t let you put in the H. idea headlights.

Granite Inlaid Solid Wood Desk

Granite Inlaid Solid Wood Desk
Granite Inlaid Solid Wood Desk

Today I’m going to show you how I built my super huge granite inlaid solid wood desk each of these chunks right here pieces of granite that I got for free from a counter shop it’s just thrown away. The legs are made of piping explain a bit more about that as well this.

So here’s where I’m at so far I’m making a giant 7 foot long. Granite in late desk, I got these three-quarter inch thick ones just because it’ll take less wood at the office. I have some more significant granite pieces, but when you’re born that much would out of the total desk space, it’s going to be that pre structurally unsound, so the thinner and pieces of granite are. The more sturdy the desk will have a bunch more granite slabs over there as far as the positioning of the granite goes, I have.

This piece right here used to be 130 kinds of cool to spread out a little bit, and then as far as the restaurant goes, I want to keep the same grain of the granite even though these are entirely different chunks. That is broken off.

They have that dark street kind of going left to right. I want to keep that kind of uniform throughout the table to hold a general theme of it and then as I’m using my plunge router to cut out the holes. I have marked this with a pencil.

And I’ve left a little piece of wood right here so as a router out the space around here this will keep the router steady and even with the top of the table so I don’t end up with uneven chunks the bottom and I’ll show you what I mean later on. Now I have to do is finish rattling out the other slots for the other piece of granite. And I’ll figure out how to fill this gap between the grand in the woods.

I’ve started to seal the blocks down into the wood, but I’ve taken some liquid nails, and some wood glue and I drifted into the hole and then set the granite slabs on top of that to conceal the back of the wood, and then I started taking wood filler and putting.

It around the outside of the granite and the inside of the wood and had worked out pretty well so far one thing that helped me lay the wood filler. In between the ground and the wood was when I started using my finger and a nice and putting in between.

wood, and I’m afraid that’s going to look bad when I’ve finally stayed. So what I did is I bought one of these. Dollar ketchup dispensers from Walmart. And filled it up with the wood filler, and then I can take it and squeeze it into the crack between the ground and the wood, and that makes it a lot less messy I also try to experiment with the liquid nails, and liquid nails say.

It’s dateable, so we’re going to find that out I use these two front pieces. Entirely with liquid nails, Semitic those incentives down later clean him up, and then we’ll see how well the stain what’s friendly with the wood filler though is that I can take it. And it’s rough right now, but as soon as it’s going to dry it leaves a little bit tacking, you can just tap it down into the hole and kind of clean up that whole.

A lot better than it would normally. One block left and then let it dry for a day and then stand and see what happens, let me talk a minute about the base that I’m using for the desk. It is a pipe base. The whole thing is made out of pipes starting with this like here you can see I have to base than ever T. joint after a 4-inch square piece and that branches out and I’m going to link all of the different parts of this base in the video description below I’ll put a link there where other elements are.

So I have. This bar right here spaces the two legs, and I have another T. join up here that moves across, and he joined here that moves up, so there’s a total. At 4 pins around the side. Then you can see here and then there’s the one lake here. Up in the center that goes up towards the back next, my monitor stands. Going to be, so this adds another—a little bit. Of support in—the center of the end of the desk. And I’ve put all of my weight on them in it evenly distributes.

It down these leads over here which is lovely the desk is going to be pretty darn sturdy another thing that’s nice about the office is that the gross floor isn’t quite even you can see that there’s a little bit discrepancy between the concrete slabs but at each of the joints. You can see the base the 4-inch piece in the T. joint you can screw it in a little bit more a little bit less. And then the top of the exactly where you want. With.

To learn a couple of things will stay at the top of his desk. A. The stain does stick to granite. Some have to find a way to get that off after noticing that I did switch around and start taking off the pieces of granite, so hopefully, the rest won’t end up quite as marked up. No, it’s own covered and ready to be put in the office slash my bedroom.

So in the base, the table screwed. Into place, and all the tops are measured, so they’re all the same height she. So I’m pretty happy with how the desk turned out I used to different types of granite just to kind of see how they would differ so we have the white granite in the back, and that’s just like a matte finish is not super glossy or anything, and I think it looks alright, but I prefer the starker granite right here that is super glossy you can see the reflection of the light right there and the door frame so,

I think having a bunch of super glossy pieces embedded in the wood. It would look cool the one thing that I would do differently as I tried using liquid nails right here because it said it was stable. It did not sustain very well, and I don’t particularly appreciate how it looks. I mean, it’s not terrible but where I used to wood filler plans and a lot easier with the granite.

So next time I’ll use wood filler for all the granite pieces instead of liquid nails, so it’s not about the set up is I have my new desk here, and I have my old office here and if you remember this is the one I did the wireless charging through the bottom of the desk.

I’ll post a link to that article here as well, and so since it’s right next to my bed, I can just take my phone put it right on my desk and have it wires to charge through the office during the night. This is also where I do all my phone repair videos and set up my lightbox, but my camera mounts tripod here the second film those articles right next to my editing station.
So this is it, and you can tell she is pretty darn sturdy. Thanks for watching very questions make sure to lean down in the comments below.

Glass Only Screen Replacement On Samsung GS3


Entertainment show you how to fix this a crack screen on the galaxy S. 3 in the same process that you would use on any of the newer galaxy phones and the latest Samsung phones Respaut we’re going to take out the battery you need to take apart the phone for this.

Because the glass is not connected to anything on the phone is just glued on there. We’re going to take a heat gun and heat the glue separating that is holding together the glass screen. To the phone, it says sitting right above the digitizer sore heating that grew up little enough to let the glass separate away from the rest of the phone.

The temperature you want to get at is the point where it’s almost too hot to touch. If you heated too much of damage the LCD underneath and I made another video that you can check out here that’ll teach you some of the of what not to do when you’re separating the glass from the rest the phone, so I’ve taken a razor blade knife inserted it between the screen in the frame. You can see the glue start to separate.

And moved downward into the phone. Let that sit for just a second and pop one of my other tools in here to hold its place. And while I’m doing this, the phone is cooling down in the glue is going to start to harden again so periodically during this whole process I have to bust out the heat gun, and he still left the phone. Keep it warm so that the glue stays liquid enough for me to work around the outsides.

What’s careful about this is that usually when you crack your screen, you have to replace the whole thing is a unison cost anywhere from 100 to 250 Bucks depending on what kind of phone you have and how new it is. The glass pieces for these phones only require about 10 Bucks, so that I will list those in the video description below but $10 a whole lot better than 250. So here I am separating the clue again. Coming out from the other side after I was done receiving the phone.

And you can use plastic tools U. K. I prefer metal tools myself you sexy careful not to damage the frame everyone has their personal preferences. I just find that metal tools are a little more. There’s more have more structural integrity is they don’t bend around fluctuate as much today I have more control over what I’m doing. Some are heating the phone again, making sure the inclusiveness and heart touching it periodically, making sure not heated up too much.

kind of slide it down. He said separating them needs to be careful not to touch the digitizer underneath the glass screen digitizer is the next layer because it is incredibly fragile. Very much if you put any pressure whatsoever on it, it will crack, and you can check out the tips and tricks article that I made it’ll show you a little bit more about that.

And he had the phone again making sure the group stays nice and. One. You know the tips and tricks to do that in made show me breaking the phone in 3 different ways. So it’s a pretty useful article showing what not to replace the glass on your phone; check that out before you attempt to do this operation.
So smart I would ha

ve done this step a little bit sooner because the top of the screen and started to reattach itself so should a prop something in there like a bit of guitar pick worry another racer played they can keep the top of the screen separate from the rest the phone, so I wouldn’t have to. Right-back up again. Now that I have my red tool in there, it’ll hold the screen far enough up.
We will start to separate on its own when down towards the bottom. You see blue as the screen separates from the rest of the phone. He can move in. Keep on sliding my tools down just ran the screen up ever so gently that you know cracking your digitizer you’ll think to yourself man that was so easy to break I cannot believe how easy it was. Your best bet is just not to touch it at all.

The cooldown around the bottom of the phone because that’s where the touch-sensitive buttons are. And there is a little cable connecting those they’ll have to detach from the back of the glass no she had to do that in just a second. One little bit that still holds the phone together, some heated up, and you’ll see it move. Detach yourself just like them. They are so having the right amount of heat. That’s what makes this job. That’s what makes fixing the phone easy or hard.

Just finding that perfect balance Sir right here, this is the double-sided sticky tape that’s holding the screen down you want to reuse as much of this is possible. Unfortunately for this phone, most of that, but I just got off is not going to be reused. So she had to fix that in a second now. These are the buttons I talked about before ominously wished my plastic tool and pried those gently away from the glass screen. Because I have to reuse these, they have to connect to the new piece of glass; otherwise, you lose your menu in your back buttons.

Now, if you end up ripping this cable, that’s it you only have one shot at this if you end up damaging the digitizer cutting the wire you just have to buy a new screen there’s no fixing it, so there is a little bit of risk involved, but at the same time you end up saving a lot of money if it works. All right, get rid of the old glass number to go around the edges make sure there are no little shards of glass.

Anywhere you must get every single little shark to take as much time as you need and pick out every little bit because any bit of stuck down still inside of the phone will keep the new screen away from the phone body, don’t let it sit flush against the. The phone itself so I just cut away some of the sticky tapes. The stuff that was bunched up, I want my screen to sit flush against the phone if there is any little. Bubbles are ripples or anything like that won’t sit flush. No usually.

with the glass screen. But in this case, he said he was stuck down on the digitizer some very gently just kind of robin that back and peeling away, which is strange strangely satisfying. At least it isn’t super important to the phone; it only helps the old screen stay on the stay in place. We have a new way of attaching the glass menagerie that just a second this new tape down. This will take this whole thing cost about 3 or 4 books on Amazon, a link that in the description below as well.

It’s enough to last a lifetime. These new antagonisms unfeeling from the role and building kind of a framework around the actual screen itself. And this does two things: it holds the original piece of glass in place and creates a barrier from dust to see what the square of the screen is to be 100 percent sealed. Make a solid square or rectangle around the LCD so that when the glasses on top of it, there’s no way for dust to get between the glass and the digitizer.

Making sure there are no gaps anywhere. You can see right here on meet just meeting up with a piece of sticky tape that I was able to save on that top left side. And I’m also making sure that I’m not covering up any of the cameras or the speaker’s tape around. Those that I can still use them all right here I’m super careful in taking hold and free cloth and just running around the outside to get any dust that fell under the digitizer while we were working.

Being very gentle, Merete cracked the digitizer. No solution replaces the whole screen. It was gently picking up all the dust. Making sure there are no glass fragments anywhere. Now it is time to remove the upper side of the sticky tape. Stigmata razor blades separating the two layers of sticky tape are now stuck to the phone, and the other hand is ready for the screen to replace them. On top of it.

Making sure all the dust is gone, you only have one shot at this initiative system. Now I’m taking the screen and lining it up with the buttons down below. The back button in the menu button. A similar place lines the screen up and makes sure that the funds are stuck to the screen before setting the screen down and home. Once again, you can get these quest pieces for super cheap on Amazon anywhere from 5 to 10 Bucks and link those in the video description below.

Then I’m lining the home button up first because it has a little bit of play. You can wiggle around to make sure society, and then you make sure that the earpieces also lined up with the hole in the upper side of the class. Once you have those two pieces lined up, you can just president place. Now, this right now, it’s good to go. You can use the phones working 100 percent. I like to take the heat gun, and only one more time heat the phone just enough so that it’s hard to the touch.

Nick cannon of seals the double-sided sticky tape to the glass; it makes it a stronger bond than it would be without the heat. Building in about 6 to 7 inches away from the phone, it also just depends on you know how powerfully he again is. Thomas, to architecture, was good to go. Once you know, put all the parts you need for this project, the description below. Can phone can says find the whole thing only took me about 30 minutes.
I do have a bit of practice, you know. The most important thing is just taking time to go slow. And try not to break anything. You a pop battery back in. I can want that overheating then and just gone to the test to make sure that everything is working still.

And if you have any questions, make sure to leave in the comments below. Don’t forget to like it if this article helps you.
Fairly often, I get new technology pretty quick just

The Galaxy S6 Edge Screen

The Galaxy S6 Edge Screen
The Galaxy S6 Edge Screen

In this article will show you the internals of the galaxy S. 6 edge I’m going to give you a general idea of how everything inside can be replaced including the back of the phone the camera the charging port the mother board all of the good stuff but remove the sim card tray up at the top of the phone with your sim card removal tool all the parts and tools for this project will be linked in the article description below now the back of your phone is cracked.

it’s gonna be a little bit harder to remove it from the phone many wedding heated up with a blow dryer or a heat gun if your phone is not cracked you can take a suction Cup and section to the glass and once it’s warm the adhesive will allow the back glass to lift up a little bit from the back of the phone and make the removable back easier to remove now if your phone is cracked like.

it is on my device you’re gonna need to heat it up in the suction Cup won’t stick to the back because all the cracks allow air to get underneath the suction Cup so you take a little metal pry tool and kind of split it between the metal frame of the phone and the glass back. You will be really careful you’re doing this you don’t crack the back even more .

I just got a slight dip tool around the edge of the phone to kind of cut through the adhesive that’s holding it to the device and you get a better understanding of how it’s held down once you see what’s underneath 17 she added to that cutting with the metal pry tool I use a playing card which is a little bit thinner and doesn’t stretch the glass as much as the metal tool does end up being a little bit easier in the long run once the glass is mostly up I can cut through the last remaining adhesive with the card and pull the glass up away from the device so,

I think you want to watch out for is that black Q. Y. charger underneath the glass if you cut through that then it’ll stop working you won’t be able to queue I charge your phone anymore here’s a broken back I’m just gonna discard this as the replacement backs are pretty cheap I mean running through a camera lens replacement really quick down at the bottom there’s little groovy can slip your tweezers through or just any kind of metal pry tool you can lift up the lens if your lenses ever scratched or cracked you can replace it fairly easily is a pretty cheap on Amazon.

I will link these innovators scripture below as well pretty straightforward with the replacement you just pull off the adhesive from the back glass and push it down inside of the little metal frame making sure that you never ever touch the inside of the glass you don’t wanna leave any fingerprints or smudges or dust on the inside of the lens.

if there is any to breeze enter here your camera will not focus once you get the new lens installed to be super careful and make sure that it’s clean once the glass lenses in place on the little metal bracket you can just press it down and then when you get your new back installed in the phone.

it’ll hold it on to the mid frame so you don’t need to really worry about adhesive on the camera itself grab a screwdriver there’s 13 screws holding down the frame to the frame of the screen once you get those screws out lift off the queue I charging pad and then you can press against the back of the phone and push it out of the mid frame pretty straightforward.

I would recommend pressing up it at the. Top of the phone you can do the bottom but it does kind of get caught on the charging port as you can see a little bit right there was the mid frame is off you can see the Q. I. charging pad the camera lens and the buttons are kind of interesting right here you can see if your power but never stops working you can remove the button bracket and a little ribbon cable has just 2 little gold contact points.

That attached to the mother board as the mother board rests on top of the button itself. And you can just put it right back inside of its bracket. And then into the frame and all the buttons are pretty similar you can see the volume rockers on the other side as well so grab a plastic pry tool we’re gonna disconnect all these little ribbon cables some people call them waffle connectors from the mother board of the phone this one here is the battery.

20 sep previously was the fingerprint scanner this one ‘s for the earpiece and proximity sensor here we have the front facing camera. And you just gonna snap these from the mother board like the legos here’s the LCD and digitizer and then down here we have some wire cable connectors and these ones just on staff in the mother board as well.

It’s gonna pull those out your way and then you can lift the mother board up and away from the plastic frame and then the bottom of it is attached to the charging port ribbon cable connector so one snap that like a little lego and you’re good to go here’s the rear facing camera also has its own the ribbon cable connector and it is also slightly glued to the mother board. Here’s the rear camera.

I’m gonna push that back into place and snap it back into the mother board all these parts replaceable now for the batteries are batteries go out pretty regularly on these phones especially after you’ve had it for a year or 2 and if you’re gonna replace the battery and want to keep the screen in one piece your eyes and not break the screen as you’re removing the battery .

it helps if you heat it up a little bit and slide a thin metal tool not a razor blade because a little bit too sick. Between the battery and the frame making sure not to push or been to the screen at all or it will crack you want also make sure not to puncture the battery or it could you know start on fire explode we want to avoid that if at all possible so now that we’ve lifted the battery up out of the phone .

we do have to remove the mother board in order to get out the battery because it has that little black lip up at the top. Here is the vibrator motor we can lift that out as well so this is where you get all your notifications or if you know if your phones vibrating when it’s ringing this is what is causing that there’s little metal tab that is holding the proximity sensor and the ear piece down into the plastic frame and then down here at the charging port there’s 2 screws that are holding .

t in place we got one screw over here by the headphone Jack and then we have another screw over here in the center of the board. Once those 2 screws are out you can list the charging port away from the plastic frame of the phone the charging port is pretty interesting you know has the headphone Jack the charging port it does have the wire cable connectors on it .

you can see in the center there you have the home button where that presses down it has the 2 capacitive buttons on either side of the device you have the back button and the menu button you have the fingerprint scanner ribbon cable there the LCD cable and this is the entire screen of the device right here you can see as the LCD the digitizer and the black plastic frame that holds.

it all together and I would strongly strongly recommend that if this is the part that you replace if your screen is broken some people may attempt a glass only repair but I you know would bet that that’s pretty impossible with this phone. So I will link the entire screen replacement in the video description below you can grab that. If your screen is broken.

Not for the phone back together again you saw me put the charging port back in a place with the 2 screws here’s the vibrator motor as well as the front facing camera and the earpiece proximity sensor make sure to get that little. Top of it pinned down in the slot that’s in the plastic frame well here’s one more part so,

this is a little microphone that’s attached to the top of the phone with this little waffle connector little lego piece you can just click back into place there I like Sampson because most of their parts are modular and can be replaced on a whim.

if you need to so here is the charging port how it connects back to the mother board I find that it’s easiest to put it in place was lifted up like that and you can just set the mother board down to the frame take the battery and slide it underneath the mother board member that black plastic lip that’s up there at the top definitely needs to be below the mother board and just put it back into place snapping .

it down like a little lego piece. Here is the fingerprint scanner ribbon cable that I’m also going to click down. Appear the earpiece and the proximity sensor gets clipped to the mother board and the LCD cable right there. And then these are little wire ribbon cables that need to be closed down places well member not to push so hard that you been them like it will you know snap in and you’ll feel it just make sure not to put too much pressure and damaging the connections that’ll make it harder later on make sure that the ribbon cables also fed into little groups that is designed for it .

otherwise the back you know mid frame of the phone will not sit in a place like it is right here I said the charging port in first and then get those 13 screws back into place. Pretty straightforward and here are the replacement backs I will link these in the video description as well they are tempered glass I believe they are pretty scratch resistant and they do have the pre installed it he sieve on the backs you don’t have to buy extrait he sieve to put on to the under the phone so,

it makes it a lot easier when you’re doing these kind of replacements it does not have the I am me I or the information of the device on the back as like the original one does though I am going to put a blue back on a white phone just because it’s the only one I have at the moment and just pressing it down into place peel off the protection and you can see that it fits exactly like the original does.

It doesn’t stick out too far and matches exactly along with the edge of the device. Make sure everything still works on the phone. And I’m just gonna test out how scratch resistant it is. Just because that’s what I do. I have my razor blade. Scratcher right along the logo and it looks like we’re good to go there are 0 scratches on the back of the device.

So I’m pretty impressed with it anyway I did do a durability test with the galaxy S. 6 edge I will link that article here at the end of this one any questions in the comments don’t forget to like if this article.

The Samsung Galaxy Note 7 Review

The Samsung Galaxy Note 7 Review
The Samsung Galaxy Note 7 Review

Today I’m going to show you how to take apart and fix almost everything on your galaxy note 7 I will link all of the replacement parts and tools that you’ll need down in the article description below as soon as they become available. Hopefully, you’ll never have to replace your screen with the new shatter-resistant gorilla glass five because taking part in this phone is not for the faint of heart.

It will require courage and bravery, and at least six healthy Pokemon remove the bottom Aspin and the top sim card tray, and then with a heat gun, you’ll need to heat the back cover universally around the outside. I heated up until it’s too hot to touch with my fingers then I can take a thin metal pry tool and slide it between the metal frame of the phone and the back glass being careful not to lift to tolerance the glass will crack and break and I want to reuse my back glass cover.

I will repeat the glass, but every 30 seconds, I slide my tools around the edge before going around that backer of all stops with my middle machine and switch to a playing card or business card. Because the business card is flexible enough to wrap around that curve without putting any extra stress on the glass, it’s been about 30 seconds someone hit up the phone again until.

It’s too hot to touch and then slide the second card around that second curve and slight it up slicing through the adhesive around the outside I’m not going inside. The phone to do it because there is the wireless charger and the NSC pad that we don’t want to rip around the edge and a little ribbon cable next to the power button, so watch out for that sliced through the remaining he said around the top corner. The back panel will lift off away from the phone.

If you’re replacing your back panel, they do sell replacements, usually around 20 or 30 Bucks. I will link these down the video description. They will come on their own. He said you could peel off the old, he said. You’re good to go there are 11 screws around that backside remove all those and try to keep them in order even though they appear to be the same size it’s always good to keep your screws organized. The loudspeaker comes off quickly enough to set that off to the side, and then the wireless charging and the NFC pad lift-off as well you can see the gold contact points at the upper corner that rest against the motherboard.

And that’s how I charge the batteries through the board. Here’s the vibrator motor as well now that we can see the guts of the phone will unplug the battery, making sure that there is no electricity coursing through the board. We can disconnect the Aspin. Removing the battery is relatively easy. I am using my middle pry tool to ensure that you do not puncture the battery at all. I did slice my bottom edge a little bit. This shouldn’t be a big deal as there’s no copper e

xposed, but you still want to be very careful with the batteries.
I’m going to undo this green ribbon right here on the left-hand side. Then we have the IR blaster next to the 5-megapixel front camera. We’ll talk about those more in a second I’m going to disconnect the earpiece and the front sensor array and then this other ribbon cable on the side along with the power button all these on snap like a little lego.

Down here, we have some new routing cables instead of a wired connection is now a ribbon we will disconnect the home button cable. Then we have two screws before we can lift off the motherboard I’m just going to fold it over because there is one more like a close connection at the bottom where the charging port connection to the bottom of the motherboard has been the same way since the note five. The galaxy S. 7 the universe S. 6, so let’s take my plastic nonmarring pry tool and on the snap that from the motherboard here is the rear 12-megapixel camera.

It does have a little bit of it; he said holding on to the board, you can see the I. S. stabilizing feature the camera’s self moves around inside the housing to support your image while you’re holding your phone this works for pitchers and article.

We’ll set that back in its frame and line up the lego so we can connect them again. Here’s the front array; it has an infrared LED that supposedly helps with the iris scanner in low light situations so can find your pupils and scan it into the phone what tack that back into place here’s. The iris scanner on the right and the front 5-megapixel camera on the left cute little guys the iris scanners used to unlock your phone with just your eyes will put those back into place.

And here is the charging port three screws are holding it down remove all three screws and then you can disconnect the headphone Jack phone isn’t a phone without a 3.5-millimeter headphone Jack the charging port is oddly shaped so be careful when you’re pulling it out and make sure you have all the components. Nothing rips, especially if you need to reuse.

It if you’re replacing at night, but I don’t need to be so careful this charging port has the USB type C. as well as these two signal wires up at the top except they’re not wires anymore. The ribbons that are interesting down here at the bottom of the charging port can see the USB type C. connection and the microphone. It has a little hole in the bottom that rests against the frame.

The heat pipe these things are always interesting to me some manufacturers call them liquid cooling, which I think is a bit of a stretch since there’s not any visible liquid inside of them. It’s more of vapor to birth aper chamber. It’s fairer to call them a heat pipe instead of liquid cooling the little fibers you see here help transfer the heat up and down through the tube as it rests up against the processor well for the copper back down into place painted down and it’s as good as new.

Well, but the thermal pad back into place and move on to the screen replacement now I was on successfully removing the screen I broke mine during the process as I imagine most everyone else will as well. He said an extraordinary amount of it holding the screen into place. I believe it has to do with the waterproofing that the galaxy note 7 has so far.

I’ve heeded the screen up tells too hot to touch. I slid a playing card into little battery holes of pokes out the side, and this gives me a starting point to slide another playing card around the edge to soften. The adhesive remember that there are multiple layers to the screen like the digitizer and the annelid layer. If you accidentally separate those two layers, your phone will be broken.

Now I imagine if you’re trying to remove the screen, the screens already broken anyway, Samsung has industrial machines that can remove this screen easily and with heat and suction and grabbing all the breakpoints on the frame. But local repair shops like myself without those machines it’s going to be a tough task likely there isn’t any reason to remove the screen unless.

It’s broken, so you won’t need to be as meticulous as I make sure not to damage the home button and menu buttons as it comes off during your screen replacement. You’ll see where those are at a second I wonder Sansone could develop some kind of it he said pull-tabs likes underneath.

The iPhone batteries that help it release a lot easier one little pull tab stuck somewhere inside the phone, and all of the pieces on the screen would come off; it might add some slight thickness to the screen. But would make replacing things a lot easier as you can see with the screener placement is getting pretty ridiculous at this point.

I am hitting it up about every 30 seconds and then sliding more playing cards and along the side, making sure to avoid where the analyte screen starts on each of the corners here’s.

I made my first big mistake trying to slide my card underneath this ribbon cable my slice right through it, and I imagine it’s probably pretty important there are a few other points along with the screen. That I mentioned in a second you have to watch out for one is the different ribbon cable at the top along with the whole ribbon and that goes to the analyst screens and then at the bottom you have the two menu buttons and the home button itself.

So basically all around the edge of the phone is pretty fragile now that all the T. sieve is cut or loosened I can lift the bottom and make sure that I’m not ripping the menu buttons as I lift off the screen. So I took those back down into place, and the screen is off, so this is the replacement screen. This is what it’ll look like.

If you need to buy one for yourself except for yours won’t be cut along the top ribbon and nothing of the sliced off like I managed to do with mine, it will have some adhesive on it that you can use to reattach to your old frame remove. The home button and the menu buttons are slightly it here down to the frame on a lift those off and pull the ribbon through the frame hole, and you are set if you ever do need to replace your fingerprint scanner menu buttons.

You do have to take apart your entire phone to get to this point remember, I will link all the replacement parts down in the video description below. I will wait until parts become available for this note seven before I put mine back together I will be replacing the screen and the faulty fingerprint scanner I say faulty because well.

It’s my fault that is damaged I wanted Mar this frame for just one quick second you can see how thick the metal is around the outside there is an extraordinary amount of metal in this phone probably enough. You could make two nexus 6 pieces from one no seven frames what way should take a page out of Samsung’s book. I hope you enjoy this teardown I enjoyed making it.

If you have any questions in down in the comments and please subscribe so you don’t miss my future teardown videos, my next article will explain how. The galaxy note 7 is water-resistant bonus points if you follow me on Twitter and Instagram and now and then I’ll throw a snap story out with behind the scenes footage as well thanks.

The DIY Project Valerie

The DIY Project Valerie
The DIY Project Valerie

Take a look at his view is pretty sweet. I try to stay as productive as possible when I’m traveling, so one thing I’ve done to help me stay productive as I’ve built a triple screen laptop you might have heard of project Valerie made by razor their triple-screen laptop the side screens don’t fold in the computer.

I’ve built a collapsible. Let me show you, so here is the mobile battle station. It’s got to extending monitors on either side. I’ll show you how to build these in just a second I want to show you that the screen is fully functional. I can make windows and drag it across and drop it on either side. The laptop is 100 percent portable. It’s got some new construction practices.

These hinges right here allow each of the monitors to fall completely flat. Digiday sentences about two blocks in the side monitors were around 100, so it’s a pretty inexpensive project comparatively.

I wasn’t spared myself project Valerie at CVS this year let me show you how I built my own, so this is the beginning of my triple monitor setup right now I’m using one of my old laptops these monitors. On the site here are entirely powered and receive all of their information from a U. S. B. cable, so there’s no power adapters or anything like. That these monitors are super awesome for gaming, they have an eight millisecond response time. They are still super portable because they only have that U. S. B. power connector and display connector.

They also do this weird thing where if you took him sideways, they would turn back on. The orientation of the screen will be a distraction instead, which would be excellent for browsing Reddit or you know working on something. On this computer and having information on the screen and your like editing videos are working on a project, and that’s where the triple screen laptop comes into play C.

They do have the visa amount on the back so you can put these on like a monitor extension arm, but since I have limited space on the back of my laptop, we’re going to have to use something else. I’m going to use these door hinges to hold the monitors in place allow them to flip out these clues right here these are called up Hoxie I’ve to brands I have locked tight in JB weld I’m probably going to use the JB well just because it has a higher PSI which means it has more strength in holding power so now.

I have some tape wrapping around the side of the monitor. Just holding in place and try to get an idea of where the hinges should be placed. The box is two different chemicals that mixed. When they’re combined, they form a chemical reaction that makes them hard in about 5 minutes this thing fully cure in about 2004 hours that’s why they’re still liquid inside of the tubes, but once they’re outside of the machines and expose with their and mixed, they’ll get tough fast.

Both genders are edible, and actually, it’s only been caring for about 2:00 hours, but the weight of one hinge can hold the whole laptop. So there’s a party is pretty strong I’m going to click on the first screen right now and buy clip-on I mean a proxy can tell someone to put some tape down, so I don’t get any glue stuck to the hinges with them over a minute set the monitor down in place right after I finish gluing it.

Right now, I have a stack on top of the book. You can see that the second monitor, which is this guy right here, is resting on top of the hinges. The hinge is recorded; it’s not going to stick to the laptop. Because there’s a piece of tape underneath, then I added some more weight on top of that can I add pressure to the glue and help drive better image there’s an even amount of room between the edge of the laptop and the top monitor. Hence, it folds out they’re still going to be even with each other.

Paris, I’ve taken off all the weeds. And it looks like. It’s been private an hour, and the instructions say the stuff gets tacking about 5 minutes it holds pretty steady even after just an hour of sitting there let’s see if it stands up on its own. At the door hinges on the back here. So the second screen that I’m an ad right here I guess you can call the third screen is a little more tricky because it needs to open up and it needs to sit on top of the second screen an added there.

So what I’m going to do is I’m going to stick this henge. Just like that so that part is held to the laptop and then this part is going to fold up and attached to the third monitor’s side, there’s probably 2 of them says there’s more support. This one will have a flat surface for the hinge to attach to, so it should be just as secure as the other one since I had the curved area of the back. So this time around.

I’m making sure that the hinges are also straight with each other because if the straps are Kantor’s Qantas, they’re not going to fall in the same direction one my fault this way and the other one my full slightly. That way, which would give a direct swing to the monitor so this one I’m using the edge of the laptop and just pressing this bullshit the hinge right up against it the same on both sides, and that’ll make them both equal. This.

One of my favorite things about having a triple screen laptop is on long flights like this, and I can get three times as much work was done as I usually. Yes, I did see the real project, Valerie, on display, but apparently, it was misplaced or stolen, so razor, if you need a working prototype, I’m your guy. Thanks for watching you.